Recipes

HOT PROCESS RECIPES

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Our Basic beginner premix oils contain a 1000g of oils consisting of the following oils including 5% superfat:

  • Coconut Oil: 24%
  • Olive Oil:  44%
  • Palm Oil:  33%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 1: Basic Beginner recipe
  • 287g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 141g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Slow Cooker/Crock Pot (You could make it on the stove top if you are very careful not to burn the soap.  I would recommend you do the double boiler method if you use the stove top instead of a slow cooker)

  • Stick Blender, Spatula, Spoon, Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide, Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1458.63g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly) Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 287g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 141g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Add your premix oils into your Slow Cooker and put it on high until all your oils are completely melted and clear.

 

Instructions:

Once all your oils are melted and warm in the Slow Cooker, you can add your Lye Water Solution.  It does not have to cool down before you add it, as the soap will be cooking for at least full hour anyway.  Once you add your Lye Water Solution, use your stick blender to blend the soap batter.  You can blend to light, medium, or thick trace.  This will make no difference in the end bar of soap.  Once your soap has been blended, turn the slow cooker to the low setting and cook for an hour.  Keep a close eye on your soap during this process.  You may opt to leave your soap and not stir and open it during this time… many Hot Process soap makers do this, and that is fine.  I however like to keep an eye on it, stir occasionally (every 10 – 15 minutes or so) and check on the different stages the soap goes through during the cooking process.

Champagne Bubbles Stage:  This is where the soap starts cooking.  You can see small bubbles simmering in some glistening clear liquid.  The soap almost looks like its separating.  Give it a quick stir, making sure nothing sticks to the side and dries out quicker than the rest of the soap.  Cover and leave it again.

Applesauce Stage: The soap becomes a little thicker and almost grainy looking, like applesauce.  This stage does not last long and if you miss it, do not worry, your soap will be fine.

Soft Mashed Potato stage:  This is the next stage and your soap will look slightly translucent and almost fluffy.  This happens after about an hour cooking time.  It may take a little longer, even up to 1 and a half hours depending on the amount of heat, different recipes etc.  At this stage, your soap is fully cooked.  You can switch off your Slow Cooker (or remove from heat) and add in your colourants and fragrance oil (optional).

Remember, Hot Process soap is not like cold process soap, it is thick, and the end bar is often a little rustic looking. You will have to spoon your soap into the mould and tap it down vigorously. You also need to hurry, because as it cools down it will solidify quickly.  Focus on getting the majority of the soap in the mould and don’t worry too much about the edges of the pot (the sides usually have some dry pieces and those don’t always want to stick to the rest of the soap)  You can get those out later and roll into a little ball and use as a hand soap if you want to. With gloved hands, smooth out or texture the top of your soap as desired.  Remember that the soap will be hot, so be careful.  As soon as the soap has cooled down, you can unmould and cut your soap into bars.  This soap is fully saponified and technically safe to use immediately, however 4 – 6 weeks cure time is still recommended to form a harder bar of soap that will last longer in the shower/bath.

2020-07-17

Our Double Butter premix oils contain a 1000g of oils and butters consisting of the following including 5% superfat:

  • Coconut Oil: 35%
  • Castor Oil: 5
  • Cocoa Butter: 13%
  • Olive Oil:  25%
  • Shea Butter: 12%
  • Palm Oil:  10%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 2: Double Butter
  • 293g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 144g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Equipment needed to make this soap:

  • Slow Cooker/Crock Pot (You could make it on the stove top if you are very careful not to burn the soap.  I would recommend you do the double boiler method if you use the stove top instead of a slow cooker)
  • Stick Blender, Spatula, Spoon, Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide, Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1467.49g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly), Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

 

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 293g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 144g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Add your premix oils into your Slow Cooker and put it on high until all your oils are completely melted and clear.

 

Instructions:

 

Once all your oils are melted and warm in the Slow Cooker, you can add your Lye Water Solution.  It does not have to cool down before you add it, as the soap will be cooking for at least full hour anyway.  Once you add your Lye Water Solution, use your stick blender to blend the soap batter.  You can blend to light, medium, or thick trace.  This will make no difference in the end bar of soap.  Once your soap has been blended, turn the slow cooker to the low setting and cook for an hour.  Keep a close eye on your soap during this process.  You may opt to leave your soap and not stir and open it during this time… many Hot Process soap makers do this, and that is fine.  I however like to keep an eye on it, stir occasionally (every 10 – 15 minutes or so) and check on the different stages the soap goes through during the cooking process.

Champagne Bubbles Stage:  This is where the soap starts cooking.  You can see small bubbles simmering in some glistening clear liquid.  The soap almost looks like its separating.  Give it a quick stir, making sure nothing sticks to the side and dries out quicker than the rest of the soap.  Cover and leave it again.

Applesauce Stage: The soap becomes a little thicker and almost grainy looking, like applesauce.  This stage does not last long and if you miss it, do not worry, your soap will be fine.

Soft Mashed Potato stage:  This is the next stage and your soap will look slightly translucent and almost fluffy.  This happens after about an hour cooking time.  It may take a little longer, even up to 1 and a half hours depending on the amount of heat, different recipes etc.  At this stage, your soap is fully cooked.  You can switch off your Slow Cooker (or remove from heat) and add in your colourants and fragrance oil (optional).

Remember, Hot Process soap is not like cold process soap, it is thick, and the end bar is often a little rustic looking. You will have to spoon your soap into the mould and tap it down vigorously. You also need to hurry, because as it cools down it will solidify quickly.  Focus on getting the majority of the soap in the mould and don’t worry too much about the edges of the pot (the sides usually have some dry pieces and those don’t always want to stick to the rest of the soap)  You can get those out later and roll into a little ball and use as a hand soap if you want to. With gloved hands, smooth out or texture the top of your soap as desired.  Remember that the soap will be hot, so be careful.  As soon as the soap has cooled down, you can unmould and cut your soap into bars.  This soap is fully saponified and technically safe to use immediately, however 4 – 6 weeks cure time is still recommended to form a harder bar of soap that will last longer in the shower/bath.

Our Slow-moving luxury premix oils contain a 1000g of oils consisting of the following including 5% superfat:

  • Sweet Almond Oil: 15%
  • Coconut Oil: 15%
  • Castor Oil: 5%
  • Olive Oil:  50%
  • Palm Oil:  15%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 3: Luxury
  • 252g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 136g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Equipment needed to make this soap:

  • Slow Cooker/Crock Pot (You could make it on the stove top if you are very careful not to burn the soap.  I would recommend you do the double boiler method if you use the stove top instead of a slow cooker)
  • Stick Blender, Spatula, Spoon, Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide, Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1418.65g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly), Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

 

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 252g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 136g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Add your premix oils into your Slow Cooker and put it on high until all your oils are completely melted and clear.

Instructions:

Once all your oils are melted and warm in the Slow Cooker, you can add your Lye Water Solution.  It does not have to cool down before you add it, as the soap will be cooking for at least full hour anyway.  Once you add your Lye Water Solution, use your stick blender to blend the soap batter.  You can blend to light, medium, or thick trace.  This will make no difference in the end bar of soap.  Once your soap has been blended, turn the slow cooker to the low setting and cook for an hour.  Keep a close eye on your soap during this process.  You may opt to leave your soap and not stir and open it during this time… many Hot Process soap makers do this, and that is fine.  I however like to keep an eye on it, stir occasionally (every 10 – 15 minutes or so) and check on the different stages the soap goes through during the cooking process.

Champagne Bubbles Stage:  This is where the soap starts cooking.  You can see small bubbles simmering in some glistening clear liquid.  The soap almost looks like its separating.  Give it a quick stir, making sure nothing sticks to the side and dries out quicker than the rest of the soap.  Cover and leave it again.

Applesauce Stage: The soap becomes a little thicker and almost grainy looking, like applesauce.  This stage does not last long and if you miss it, do not worry, your soap will be fine.

Soft Mashed Potato stage:  This is the next stage and your soap will look slightly translucent and almost fluffy.  This happens after about an hour cooking time.  It may take a little longer, even up to 1 and a half hours depending on the amount of heat, different recipes etc.  At this stage, your soap is fully cooked.  You can switch off your Slow Cooker (or remove from heat) and add in your colourants and fragrance oil (optional).

Remember, Hot Process soap is not like cold process soap, it is thick, and the end bar is often a little rustic looking. You will have to spoon your soap into the mould and tap it down vigorously. You also need to hurry, because as it cools down it will solidify quickly.  Focus on getting the majority of the soap in the mould and don’t worry too much about the edges of the pot (the sides usually have some dry pieces and those don’t always want to stick to the rest of the soap)  You can get those out later and roll into a little ball and use as a hand soap if you want to. With gloved hands, smooth out or texture the top of your soap as desired.  Remember that the soap will be hot, so be careful.  As soon as the soap has cooled down, you can unmould and cut your soap into bars.  This soap is fully saponified and technically safe to use immediately, however 4 – 6 weeks cure time is still recommended to form a harder bar of soap that will last longer in the shower/bath.

COLD PROCESS RECIPES

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Our Basic beginner premix oils contain a 1000g of oils consisting of the following oils including 5% superfat:

  • Coconut Oil: 24%
  • Olive Oil:  44%
  • Palm Oil:  33%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 1: Basic Beginner recipe
  • 287g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 141g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Equipment needed to make this soap:

  • Mixing bowl/Jug (2liter at least)
  • Stick Blender
  • Spatula
  • Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide.
  • Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1458.63g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly)
  • Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 287g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 141g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Place the sealed premix bag into a pot of hot water over medium heat on the stove until all the oils are melted.  Your oils should be clear when everything is properly melted.  Pour your oils into your mixing bowl/jug.

Instructions:

You should wait until your oils and lye solution reach around 32 degrees Celsius.  Your lye and oils do not have to be the exact same temperature but should be close and no hotter than 33 degrees Celsius as hotter temperatures can accelerate trace and cause your batter to heat up too quickly or even overheat.

When you reach the correct temperature, you can add your lye solution into your oils carefully, taking care not to splash or cause bubbles.  Take your stick blender and place it into the oils.  Gently shake it around to release any trapped air underneath it, if not done, it will cause air pockets in your soap.  Now stick blend on low for only about 10 seconds, moving the stick blender around to make sure your blend evenly.  Depending on your preference, you can blend to emulsion, light, medium or thick trace.  At this point you will want to add any colourant or fragrance if you prefer.  Blend these in by hand and pour you batter into your mould. Tap your mould on the ground a few times to release any trapped air. You can texture the top using a spoon or swirl with a skewer.  You can spray the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to prevent soda ash and leave uncovered.  Or you can insulate with cardboard boxes and towels or blankets to force gel phase.

Wait 18-24 hours to un mould your soap, cut into bars and let cure for 4-6 weeks before selling, using, or giving as gifts.

Note: Always be cautious when working with melted bases.  Keep out of reach of children & pets.  Own testing / recipes is required.

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Our Double Butter premix oils contain a 1000g of oils and butters consisting of the following including 5% superfat:

  • Coconut Oil: 35%
  • Castor Oil: 5
  • Cocoa Butter: 13%
  • Olive Oil:  25%
  • Shea Butter: 12%
  • Palm Oil:  10%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 2: Double Butter
  • 293g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 144g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Equipment needed to make this soap:

  • Mixing bowl/Jug (2 litre at least)
  • Stick Blender
  • Spatula
  • Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide.
  • Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1467.49g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly)
  • Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 293g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 144g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Place the sealed premix bag into a pot of hot water over medium heat on the stove until all the oils are melted.  Your oils should be clear when everything is properly melted.  Pour your oils into your mixing bowl/jug.

 

Instructions:

You should wait until your oils and lye solution reach around 32 degrees Celsius.  Your lye and oils do not have to be the exact same temperature but should be close and no hotter than 33 degrees Celsius as hotter temperatures can accelerate trace and cause your batter to heat up too quickly or even overheat.

When you reach the correct temperature, you can add your lye solution into your oils carefully, taking care not to splash or cause bubbles.  Take your stick blender and place it into the oils.  Gently shake it around to release any trapped air underneath it, if not done, it will cause air pockets in your soap.  Now stick blend on low for only about 10 seconds, moving the stick blender around to make sure your blend evenly.  Depending on your preference, you can blend to emulsion, light, medium or thick trace.  At this point you will want to add any colourant or fragrance if you prefer.  Blend these in by hand and pour you batter into your mould. Tap your mould on the ground a few times to release any trapped air. You can texture the top using a spoon or swirl with a skewer.  You can spray the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to prevent soda ash and leave uncovered.  Or you can insulate with cardboard boxes and towels or blankets to force gel phase.

Wait 18-24 hours to unmould your soap, cut into bars and let cure for 4-6 weeks before selling, using, or giving as gifts.

493583-PH5PIK-162

Our Slow-moving luxury premix oils contain a 1000g of oils consisting of the following including 5% superfat:

  • Sweet Almond Oil: 15%
  • Coconut Oil: 15%
  • Castor Oil: 5%
  • Olive Oil:  50%
  • Palm Oil:  15%
  • For this recipe we will use a 33% lye concentration.

Ingredients needed to make this soap:

  • 1x Premix Recipe 3: Slow-Moving Luxury
  • 252g Distilled/De-ionised water
  • 136g Sodium Hydroxide
  • Colorant (optional)
  • Fragrance oil or essential oil (optional)

Equipment needed to make this soap:

  • Mixing bowl/Jug (2liter at least)
  • Stick Blender
  • Spatula
  • Separate heat safe container for mixing sodium hydroxide.
  • Soap mould (this recipe makes roughly 1418.65g of soap and will fit the purple silicone wooden box mould perfectly)
  • Infrared thermometer

Preparation:

Suit up for safety… Gloves, protective eyewear, mask (when mixing lye), long sleeves, long pants, and close toed shoes.

Prepare your lye solution by measuring 252g of distilled or de-ionised water into a heat safe container.  In a separate container measure out 136g of sodium hydroxide.  Add your sodium hydroxide to your water (NEVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND) and mix thoroughly but gently until your lye is completely dissolved.

Place the sealed premix bag into a pot of hot water over medium heat on the stove until all the oils are melted.  Your oils should be clear when everything is properly melted.  Pour your oils into your mixing bowl/jug.

 

Instructions:

You should wait until your oils and lye solution reach around 32 degrees Celsius.  Your lye and oils do not have to be the exact same temperature but should be close and no hotter than 33 degrees Celsius as hotter temperatures can accelerate trace and cause your batter to heat up too quickly or even overheat.

When you reach the correct temperature, you can add your lye solution into your oils carefully, taking care not to splash or cause bubbles.  Take your stick blender and place it into the oils.  Gently shake it around to release any trapped air underneath it, if not done, it will cause air pockets in your soap.  Now stick blend on low for only about 10 seconds, moving the stick blender around to make sure your blend evenly.  Depending on your preference, you can blend to emulsion, light, medium or thick trace.  At this point you will want to add any colourant or fragrance if you prefer.  Blend these in by hand and pour you batter into your mould. Tap your mould on the ground a few times to release any trapped air. You can texture the top using a spoon or swirl with a skewer.  You can spray the top with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to prevent soda ash and leave uncovered.  Or you can insulate with cardboard boxes and towels or blankets to force gel phase.

Wait 18-24 hours to unmould your soap, cut into bars and let cure for 4-6 weeks before selling, using, or giving as gifts.

MELT & POUR

CHARCOAL

Ingredients – This recipe makes 4x 100g Rose Spa Bars

Spa Bar with Kaolin Clay, Activated Charcoal and Rose Essential Oil

  • 400g White Melt and Pour soap base
  • 4ml Rose Essential Oil
  • Soap Colourants (Micas): Rose Mica
  • Kaolin Clay
  • Activated Charcoal
  • 10ml Sweet Almond Oil (or any other lightweight carrier oil)

You will need the following equipment.

  • 2x Microwave/heat-safe jugs
  • A metal/stainless steel spoon, chopstick, or popsicle stick.
  • A pot to make a double boiler with (Bain Marie) You will place the jug in this, same as melting chocolate, alternatively a microwave
  • 4x 100g cavity soap mould of your choice
  • Infrared Thermometer

Method

Prepare your colour and clay:

In a small container mix ½ teaspoon of Kaolin Clay with 1/8 teaspoon of Rose Mica with 5ml of Sweet Almond oil.  Mix until it is completely smooth.

In a separate small container, mix ¼ – ½ teaspoon of Activated Charcoal with 5ml Sweet Almond Oil.  Mix until completely smooth.

Cut your Melt and Pour soap base into roughly 1-2cm cubes.

Weigh out 200g of the soap and place in the microwave in 15 second bursts until your base is completely melted. Add your Kaolin clay mixture to the soap and mix gently.  Make sure everything is dispersed evenly.  Now add 2ml of Rose Essential Oil. Mix gently and pour 50g into each of your 100g soap moulds.  Spray the top with Isopropyl Alcohol and leave to set for about 20 minutes or until firm to the touch.  Now melt the rest of your soap base as per above process.  Once everything is melted, add the charcoal mixture and the Rose Essential oil.  Spray the tops of your moulded soaps with Isopropyl Alcohol and then pour the second layer.  Finally spray again with Isopropyl Alcohol and leave to set for 2-3 hours or until hardened completely.

Remove from mould and wrap with plastic wrap or shrink wrap.  Your soap is ready to use or sell.  Enjoy!

COLOURS-1

Ingredients – This recipe makes 4x 100g Ombre/Gradient soaps

  • 280g Clear Melt and Pour soap base
  • 120g White Melt and Pour soap base
  • 4-8ml Body safe Fragrance oil of your choice
  • Soap Colourants (Micas): Any 2 complementary colours that when faded together makes a new colour such as pink and blue (together make purple), Blue and Yellow (together make yellow) Orange and yellow (together makes this ombre look like a beautiful sunset) etc.

You will need the following equipment.

  • 3x Microwave/heat-safe jugs
  • A metal/stainless steel spoon, chopstick, or popsicle stick.
  • A pot to make a double boiler with (Bain Marie) You will place the jug in this, same as melting chocolate, alternatively a microwave
  • 4x 100g cavity soap mould of your choice
  • Infrared Thermometer

Method

Prepare your colours:

Scoop a 1/8 teaspoon of your 1st colourant and place into a small container and mix colourant with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol and mix until the mica is dissolved.  Do the same for your 2nd colour. You do not need a lot; the base still needs to be transparent to get a proper ombre effect.

Prepare your mould by propping it up on one side.

Cut your Melt and Pour soap base into roughly 1-2cm cubes.

Weigh 140g of clear base and place it into the microwave for 10 second bursts until your soap is melted.  Add your 1st colour to the soap. Add very little at a time and mix until you achieve the desired colour. Note that for the ombre effect to work, your base still needs to be coloured, but still translucent.  Now add your fragrance oil (1-2%, meaning 1.4 – 2.8ml for the 140g of soap base).

Now, pour 35g of soap into each 100g mould (remember the mould must be propped up on one side). Once poured, spray with Isopropyl Alcohol to pop any bubbles on the surface.  Leave the soap to set for about 20 minutes or until firm to the touch.

Repeat the above process for the 2nd colour.  You can now put your mould flat on the table.  Spray the soap that is already in the mould generously with Isopropyl Alcohol again.  Now pour another 35g of the second colour into each cavity. Spray again with Isopropyl Alcohol to pop bubbles and allow to set.  When your second layer has set up, melt the 120g white base and add fragrance as per the above process.  Spray the soap that is already in the mould generously with Isopropyl Alcohol again and pour 30g of the white soap into each cavity.  This should fill the 100g moulds to the top.

Finally spray again with Isopropyl Alcohol and leave to set for 2-3 hours or until hardened completely.

Remove from mould and wrap with plastic wrap or shrink wrap. Your soap is ready to use or sell.  Enjoy!

GALAXY-1

Ingredients – This recipe makes 4x 100g galaxy Themed soaps

  • 400g Clear Melt and Pour soap base
  • 4ml Body safe Fragrance oil of your choice
  • Soap Colourants (Micas): Black, Dark Pink, Turquoise or Blue and some glitter (optional).
  • Isopropyl Alcohol

You will need the following equipment.

  • 3x Microwave/heat-safe jugs
  • A metal/stainless steel spoon, chopstick, or popsicle stick.
  • A pot to make a double boiler with (Bain Marie) You will place the jug in this, same as melting chocolate, alternatively a microwave
  • Soap mould of your choice
  • Infrared Thermometer

Method

Prepare your colours:

Scoop a ¼ teaspoon of your pink colourant and place into a small container and mix colourant with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol and mic until the mica is dissolved.  Do the same for the blue and the same for the black when you mix into the soap later, and its not pigmented enough, repeat the process).

Cut your Melt and Pour soap base into roughly 1-2cm cubes.

Melt your soap in the microwave and melt in 30 second bursts, stirring in between until your base is fully melted.  Once melted, pour of 100ml each into your other 2 jugs.  This will leave you with 200ml in your jug.  Add your black dispersed colourant into the 200mls of soap base and the blue and pink into the 100ml respectively.  Stir well.  If your soap is not pigmented enough, feel free to prepare more colourant and add. Also add a little sprinkle of glitter to your black base that will represent the stars (optional).

Now add 1% fragrance oil to each jug, meaning 2mls in your 200ml back soap and 1ml each in your blue and pink.  Mix gently.  Check your temperature.  Your soap is ready to pour when it reaches around 48 degrees Celsius or colder.  If you pour hotter than this, the colours will muddle and you won’t get your pretty galaxy effect.

When the temperature is right, pour a little of your pink and blue at the same time into opposite corners of the mould, then pour the black.  Again the 2 colours and fill up with black until the cavity is full.  You need to estimate when pouring as to not pour more of one colour, otherwise your last soap will have more of one or the other colour.

Once you are done pouring, sprits the top with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any air bubbles.

Leave to set for 2-3 hours or until hardened completely.

Remove from mould and wrap with plastic wrap or shrink wrap. Your soap is ready to use or sell.  Enjoy!